Puppy Behavior - PLEASE READ IF YOU HAVE YOUNG CHILDREN!!
Please understand in order to get a well-mannered, laid back Newfypoo as a family member, you MUST first get through the puppy stage (10 weeks up to 2 years)!!! It's NOT easy! Please read below as this is our biggest complaint.
Please understand in order to get a well-mannered, laid back Newfypoo as a family member, you MUST first get through the puppy stage (10 weeks up to 2 years)!!! It's NOT easy! Please read below as this is our biggest complaint.
Once a puppy goes home, we often get calls or emails about nipping/biting. We always, always let people know that you cannot breed the puppy out of a puppy. It is completely natural for them to nip because that is how they play. When they are in a litter, they are constantly playing (biting) one another. While this may be ok to do with their brothers and sisters, we all know that when they do it to us it kind of hurts! The only way to stop them is to teach them that it's not ok. Everyone has their own way of teaching their puppy. We always like to suggest reacting to them just as their mother does. And yes, we literally mean growling at them! As silly as it may sound, it works! You always need to make sure you get their attention when they are doing wrong. Loud noises work well for this. If your puppy is biting your fingers, a loud "yelp" can get them to stop. We also suggest placing some pennies (or anything that will make a nice loud noise) in a can and shaking it when your puppy is nipping. They don't like the sound and eventually, they will associate that action with that sound and stop.
I'm not so sure that potty training falls under puppy behavior, but let's talk about it anyway! Unfortunately, we do not have the time for potty training. We get pretty busy around here. However, I can share with you a couple of ideas that some of our Newfypoo families have shared with us. This idea kind of stems from life here at the Zoo. We use wood chips (either Pine or Cedar) in our whelping boxes. Now don't ask me why, but for some reason, when we introduce our puppies to them, they automatically KNOW that's where to "Go". Call it magic, call it instinct...it works! So with that being said, we have some families who have incorporated this into potty training at home. Basically what they do is take some wood chips and place them in their yard where they want their puppy to go potty and voila', there they go! Another suggestion, if you choose to try puppy pads, is to place some wood chips on top for a while until they are used to the pad.
***We have added a video to show you how your puppy "plays" for the first 8 weeks of their lives and why they may think you are their "chew toy".
I'm not so sure that potty training falls under puppy behavior, but let's talk about it anyway! Unfortunately, we do not have the time for potty training. We get pretty busy around here. However, I can share with you a couple of ideas that some of our Newfypoo families have shared with us. This idea kind of stems from life here at the Zoo. We use wood chips (either Pine or Cedar) in our whelping boxes. Now don't ask me why, but for some reason, when we introduce our puppies to them, they automatically KNOW that's where to "Go". Call it magic, call it instinct...it works! So with that being said, we have some families who have incorporated this into potty training at home. Basically what they do is take some wood chips and place them in their yard where they want their puppy to go potty and voila', there they go! Another suggestion, if you choose to try puppy pads, is to place some wood chips on top for a while until they are used to the pad.
***We have added a video to show you how your puppy "plays" for the first 8 weeks of their lives and why they may think you are their "chew toy".
We have also added some helpful tips on nipping and training from some of our very own Newfypoo Zoo families below! Please join our group on Facebook to meet and chat with some of our other families. They may have some training tips for you as well as other helpful advice!
Good morning, Stephanie! We had a problem with Molly biting, so much so my inner thighs were black and blue. She would go after my kids too, but it wasn't in a vicious way, just playful, but she's big so it's exacerbated. But we had great success with an e-collar. She is a great dog now that my 7 and 10 year old love!
Just wanted to pass that along. I'm sure you hate to see a family that has probably waited a long time for a puppy have to give it up.
For all those struggling with this, as many have said in the past it does stop. In our very first training class with Liberty everyone had the same complaints of their puppies biting and jumping and the trainer told us some tips that have been mentioned but said in the end we would not even remember this stage nearly as much later on. It is true, and while I still remember her nipping, having a loving, sweet dog now completely outweighs the very tough first 8 months to a year. It does take training but most importantly time and if you give them that it does get better. I know it seems like it will never end but it does. Suddenly at around a year she became a lot more mature and stopped. And as hard as puppy raising was we are doing it all over again and getting a second puppy from Stephanie because we know they turn out to be amazing dogs :)
I understand the issue with the children but not a kinder breed mix ever. The nipping will stop. I simply say no teeth when he uses his when playing and he stops. As far as nipping outside of playing... I would say that isn't anything I ever experienced. It's a puppy thing. It will stop and it's a boundary easily taught for playtime. I just stop playing with him if he is determined.
Harrison Kelner Other current or future Newdle owners - unfortunately this is something that happens with bigger intelligent dogs. They are testing boundaries and rough play is instinctual for them. I know Lyn and I would chat back and forth constantly trading tips and ideas while Burry and Wrig were babies.
Best advice I can give you is to be consistent and develop a routine. I promise it stops. It seems like it never will but Burry and Wrig both stopped after 6 months. Burry just passed his therapy dog exam and Wrig is a giant sweetheart. Burry even flies with me now!
I used to carry a knotted up wool sock in my back pocket while at home. If burry jumped or nipped at me, I'd get ahold of his collar, make him sit and then after a 3 count give him the sock to redirect his play. Punishing or disciplining dogs this smart will get you nowhere. You have to show them that the behaviors you like are better and more fun.
Keep treats in your pocket at all times. If your pup does something you like, make sure to reward them immediately and throw a damn party. If they do something you don't like, take the attention and stimulation away. Make them sit and take away eye contact, don't talk to them and use a monotone voice if you must. These dogs are so intelligent that they have to want to listen. Show them good behaviors are more fun by being excited when they happen. I literally used to sound like a crazy person.
Last thing I'd recommend is making sure they have plenty to chew on. Burry is a master chewer. If you give them healthy outlets, they'll leave your limbs off the menu! I would recommend a kong with one end plugged with peanut butter and then filled and frozen with chicken stock. I'd give that to Burry as a pup and it would entertain him for hours. Giving them a healthy acceptable alternative whenever they start displaying an undesirable behavior wins every time. If you're consistent and excited whenever they make the right choice, you'll be amazed how fast they can catch on.
Burry is now a giant fluffy teddy bear who is sweet, well mannered and (in my opinion) the best dog ever. I'm sure Lyn would say the same about Wrig.
Lyn Batia Harrison I couldn't agree more :) you nailed it!!! They are very smart dogs and will test you constantly in the first 6 to 8 months but it is so worth it. Wrigley did pass his evaluation, we have 3 classes left and he will be a therapy dog :)
Feeding
We feed our puppies and adults Diamond Natural all life stages salmon and potato. Another great brand we suggest is Fromm. We often get asked how much and how often to feed a puppy. We do not do individual feeding. Once our puppies move on to puppy food, we feed them as a litter in a large dish, twice a day. Typically, a puppy should be fed twice a day. 1 1/2 cups each morning (please feed more if your puppy seems hungry) and 1 1/2 cups at night. We suggest feeding a couple hours before bedtime and also putting up the water a few hours before bedtime (otherwise, water should always be available to your puppy). If you choose not to feed your puppy the same food, we have him/her on, all you need to do is mix your choice brand of food with ours for at least 5 days (adding less of our food periodically) to prevent soft stool. We will send you home a sample bag of Diamond Naturals Large Breed Puppy food.
Vaccinations given by vet
We are getting a lot of inquiries about which vaccinations the puppies will be receiving so that families can pass on the information to their vets when making appointments. Here is the list of which vaccines your puppy will come home with. Your next vet appointment should be no less than 3 weeks from the date of the first vaccinations. We will send home your original vet records that will include the stickers right off of the vaccine vile.
Parasites
For the average person, the idea of having parasites is a pretty scary thought, but in the world of 8 week old puppies, it's really not uncommon. Similar to a toddler bringing everything home from preschool, puppies are going to pick up parasites from any number of sources i.e... from other dogs to the yard to things being tracked into the house by visitors or even their own mothers. Thankfully, the vast majority of parasites aren't serious and are easily treated. However, also like little ones in preschool, puppies pass things from one to another and back again so as long as they're in a group setting, parasites can be difficult to completely eliminate. We always recommend that new puppy parents take a stool sample with them for their puppies first vet visit. Please, understand that we do everything in our power to send home healthy puppies including but not limited to a full litter stool sample exam as well as a veterinarian health check and vaccinations, but even the great lengths that we go to arn't foolproof. It's always good to get your puppy off on the right foot once you get them home by having them checked again. If, by some chance, your vet does find a parasite, we will be happy to reimburse the cost of the medicine that your vet prescribes and we will continue to cover any parasite related costs until we are all comfortable that that issue has been resolved. Please note, the only two parasites we have ever had problems with are Coccidia and Giardia (very common for most breeders). Please inform your vet of these two parasites if your puppy has loose stool. These two parasites can be hard to find. We can not be responsible for other testing if we are not aware of it.
Grooming
When it comes to your puppy/dogs coat, you have to go with what works best for your situation. Newfypoo coats are pretty high maintenance. They need to be brushed daily to avoid mats which can be painful. If you choose to keep your Newfypoo's coat long, we always suggest getting a rake that gets the undercoat as well as the top coat. You can find these rakes at any pet store. The one we like in particular looks like the photo above. While many, but not all Newfypoos do not shed much, when they are a puppy, you will most likely see hair from their puppy coat. This rake is great for that! If you don't have the time for brushing every day, we always suggest keeping them trimmed. Many of our families choose to keep their Newfypoo in a "puppy cut", where there is still fur and they are not shaved, but cut down low enough to be manageable. Also, sometimes, no matter how hard you try, mats can happen. If you notice a mat, you can try and brush it out, but if that's just not working, you'll want to cut it out with scissors to avoid it getting any bigger. As we mentioned above, mats can be very painful. If you have ever fallen asleep with gum in your mouth and woke up with it in your hair, you may know the feeling!
If you choose to bathe your Newfypoo at home, it can be quite a job! We like to use the sink when they are small, which is great, but it doesn't last long (unless you have a really big sink!) We get asked a lot about what we use to bathe our puppies and dogs. Honestly, our favorite product for a bath is Dawn dish soap! It works really well at getting the dirt out of their fur. Puppies are forever running and playing and sometimes don't see that big puddle in front of them or notice when there's a nice patch of mud in the grass, (or maybe like many puppies, they see it and don't care) so we're often left with a dirty little mess of fur and cuteness! Dawn cuts grease on your dishes as well as dirt on your Newfypoo! :-)
If you choose to bathe your Newfypoo at home, it can be quite a job! We like to use the sink when they are small, which is great, but it doesn't last long (unless you have a really big sink!) We get asked a lot about what we use to bathe our puppies and dogs. Honestly, our favorite product for a bath is Dawn dish soap! It works really well at getting the dirt out of their fur. Puppies are forever running and playing and sometimes don't see that big puddle in front of them or notice when there's a nice patch of mud in the grass, (or maybe like many puppies, they see it and don't care) so we're often left with a dirty little mess of fur and cuteness! Dawn cuts grease on your dishes as well as dirt on your Newfypoo! :-)
I think a rake and a comb with teeth very close together are best. The rake is great for the body, the small tooth comb is great for the ears and face. I do not find that the regular looking brushes, or the brushes with several painful bristles work well or get the under coat at all. There are several brands out there and I think I have one of each. I don’t have a favorite brand; I just have favorite brushes.
I like to add EAR WASH after I give the puppies a bath. The ear wash dries out the ear in case any water got into the ear canal. I recommend always getting ear products from your vet. It is a good idea to smell your dogs ears from time to time. Most ear problems are an easy, cheap fix if they are noticed right away. Ear infections are common and always come with a smell. Some heart guard medications can now treat ear mites too. I say the more the medication can treat the better off your dog is.
What does my puppy come home with and need before I bring them home ..
This is a question that we get asked a lot. We know our families want to make sure they have everything they need for their puppy before they bring him or her home. We put together a small puppy pack that includes all vet records, a sample of food that should last them a few days (long enough for you to make it to the store without risking puppy starvation or to transition your puppy to your choice of food), a "mommy and me" blanket or pillow that we've rubbed on "mama" to capture her scent, and a couple of toys to get them started.
What they will need from you is a basic plan about sleeping arrangements, feeding and potty training schedules (nothing needs to be written in stone, but a regular schedule helps a new baby to adjust) and a lot of love. Everything else is a bonus. We recommend that you take your puppy with you to shop for a collar and leash if at all possible to ensure a good size, but be aware that pet stores can be one of those places puppies pick things up and 8 week old puppies are not 100% vaccinated. It's important that you don't put them down or into a cart in or near the store until they've had all three sets of vaccines and a rabies shot. We recommend a collapsible crate (the kind with a partitioning wall to adjust the interior size). Although it certainly isn't required, these are a great help if you decide to crate train and in time it becomes a safe space for them, like having their own room. If they are introduced correctly, a crate can be positive addition to your puppy's life. Like children, puppies tend to thrive when given structure and routine.
What they will need from you is a basic plan about sleeping arrangements, feeding and potty training schedules (nothing needs to be written in stone, but a regular schedule helps a new baby to adjust) and a lot of love. Everything else is a bonus. We recommend that you take your puppy with you to shop for a collar and leash if at all possible to ensure a good size, but be aware that pet stores can be one of those places puppies pick things up and 8 week old puppies are not 100% vaccinated. It's important that you don't put them down or into a cart in or near the store until they've had all three sets of vaccines and a rabies shot. We recommend a collapsible crate (the kind with a partitioning wall to adjust the interior size). Although it certainly isn't required, these are a great help if you decide to crate train and in time it becomes a safe space for them, like having their own room. If they are introduced correctly, a crate can be positive addition to your puppy's life. Like children, puppies tend to thrive when given structure and routine.
Size and Personality
Most people who want a Newfypoo, want a big and somewhat mellow dog who doesn't shed or drool. They basically want a Newfy without all the hair and slobber.
Newfypoos generally get to be somewhere between 70 and 110 pounds. Some can obviously grow larger, but this is the typical weight range. We don't see many that grow to be less than that. The smallest they would end up being would be around 65 pounds (the average size of one of our poodles). We have not seen this very often at all. The majority of our puppies either meet or exceed the average weight. We actually have a Newfypoo out there that is over 140 pounds (pictured above). However, he has litter mates that are only 60 to 80 pounds. We can't predict how much your puppy will weigh in the 8 weeks that we have them here at the Zoo. Many puppies from larger litters, start out smaller and then, once they go home, end up a completely normal size. We always like to let everyone know not to worry, they end up just fine, even if they get a slow start. We try our best to rotate puppies while mom is nursing so everyone gets to eat as much as possible, but it's just not possible to watch them 24 hours a day.
Now, if you are looking for a smaller Newfypoo, we do offer Mini's! You get everything you want in a Newfypoo, but in a smaller version! Mini's come from breeding a Newfoundland to a Mini Poodle opposed to a Standard Poodle. Smalls generally get to be somewhere between 45 and 50 pounds.
We also breed F1B Newfypoos, which is a Newfypoo bred back to a Newfoundland. F1Bs are more likely to shed and drool but do tend to look a lot more Newfy than our Standard and Mini's. When we began to breed F1Bs, we did expect them to be a little larger than our Standards, but as of now, we are not seeing a weight difference, so they too fall in the 70-to-110-pound range. (Note: We also breed F1Bs by breeding a Newfypoo back to a Poodle which makes them completely non shedding!!)
I'd also like to add that unlike a pure-bred dog, males are not necessarily the larger of the 2 genders in this breed. It all depends on which parent (or relative) each puppy takes after.
On to personalities...
Not many people contact us saying that they want a Newfypoo with a Poodle personality. Poodles are definitely known to be much more energetic. Newfys, not so much. They are kind of polar opposites on the level of energy scale :-) So what do you get for a personality when you cross these two different breeds? You get the PERFECT breed! You get a dog that wants to run and play because they are half Poodle, but then after a while, the Newfy in them kicks in and it's time to take a nap!
When it comes to your Newfypoo being around people or other animals, we always encourage it! They are a very social breed and get along well with humans of all ages as well as other animals. Got a cat? Great! Goats? Wonderful! We have Newfypoo families who have all kinds of other pets! Puppies from Newfypoo Zoo are socialized at a very young age. Because they are raised indoors, in our very own home, from birth, they are exposed to people and other dogs. From the time they outgrow their whelping box, they are running around at the Zoo and getting to know us, all of our visitors and our other dogs (and sometimes other puppies too!).
Newfypoos generally get to be somewhere between 70 and 110 pounds. Some can obviously grow larger, but this is the typical weight range. We don't see many that grow to be less than that. The smallest they would end up being would be around 65 pounds (the average size of one of our poodles). We have not seen this very often at all. The majority of our puppies either meet or exceed the average weight. We actually have a Newfypoo out there that is over 140 pounds (pictured above). However, he has litter mates that are only 60 to 80 pounds. We can't predict how much your puppy will weigh in the 8 weeks that we have them here at the Zoo. Many puppies from larger litters, start out smaller and then, once they go home, end up a completely normal size. We always like to let everyone know not to worry, they end up just fine, even if they get a slow start. We try our best to rotate puppies while mom is nursing so everyone gets to eat as much as possible, but it's just not possible to watch them 24 hours a day.
Now, if you are looking for a smaller Newfypoo, we do offer Mini's! You get everything you want in a Newfypoo, but in a smaller version! Mini's come from breeding a Newfoundland to a Mini Poodle opposed to a Standard Poodle. Smalls generally get to be somewhere between 45 and 50 pounds.
We also breed F1B Newfypoos, which is a Newfypoo bred back to a Newfoundland. F1Bs are more likely to shed and drool but do tend to look a lot more Newfy than our Standard and Mini's. When we began to breed F1Bs, we did expect them to be a little larger than our Standards, but as of now, we are not seeing a weight difference, so they too fall in the 70-to-110-pound range. (Note: We also breed F1Bs by breeding a Newfypoo back to a Poodle which makes them completely non shedding!!)
I'd also like to add that unlike a pure-bred dog, males are not necessarily the larger of the 2 genders in this breed. It all depends on which parent (or relative) each puppy takes after.
On to personalities...
Not many people contact us saying that they want a Newfypoo with a Poodle personality. Poodles are definitely known to be much more energetic. Newfys, not so much. They are kind of polar opposites on the level of energy scale :-) So what do you get for a personality when you cross these two different breeds? You get the PERFECT breed! You get a dog that wants to run and play because they are half Poodle, but then after a while, the Newfy in them kicks in and it's time to take a nap!
When it comes to your Newfypoo being around people or other animals, we always encourage it! They are a very social breed and get along well with humans of all ages as well as other animals. Got a cat? Great! Goats? Wonderful! We have Newfypoo families who have all kinds of other pets! Puppies from Newfypoo Zoo are socialized at a very young age. Because they are raised indoors, in our very own home, from birth, they are exposed to people and other dogs. From the time they outgrow their whelping box, they are running around at the Zoo and getting to know us, all of our visitors and our other dogs (and sometimes other puppies too!).
98% of our emails have this quote in it " We want the biggest, most Newfy looking puppy in the litter". We work everyday to make all puppies big and beautiful by pairing them up properly :). We have seen the runts outgrow the whole litter and we have seen the biggest puppies in the litter turn out the smallest, time and time again. Please do not pick your puppy based on size. A lot of the bigger puppies do photograph better because they are easier for me to hold.
Puppy training tips to help those first few weeks go more smoothly
Puppy love is a wonderful thing. It can also be exhausting and frustrating, though. Here’s some sanity-saving advice: 50 puppy tips to help guide you through those first few weeks and months, to help you get and stay on the right track when it comes to training your pup.
Puppy love is a wonderful thing. It can also be exhausting and frustrating, though. Here’s some sanity-saving advice: 50 puppy tips to help guide you through those first few weeks and months, to help you get and stay on the right track when it comes to training your pup.
GENERAL PUPPY TRAINING
1. Think of your puppy as a toddler who has no concept of right or wrong, and needs to be taught. Repetition and consistency are key. –David Wiley, Bark Busters
2. Have a calm, assertive energy when training. –Susan C., Boston Terrier Friendzy
3. A crate is an invaluable tool when housebreaking a puppy. It provides your young dog with a sense of security when you are busy or away. Never leave a puppy in a crate for longer than 4-5 hours. –David Wiley, Bark Busters
4. Baby gates can also serve as a great training tool to block off “restricted areas” of the house and help to teach your puppy what areas are off limits. –David Wiley, Bark Busters
5. Teach the command “watch me.” Essentially, you train the dog to look at you on command. Good for if they are too distracted by a squirrel, another dog, cars they want to chase, etc. –Katie L., Rover.com
6. Teach “Go to your spot” with a mat, crate, or rug. Useful for dogs that jump on guests at the door. –Katie L., Rover.com
7. Don’t get upset when your puppy does something wrong or has an accident. Even though you might be convinced at the time he/she is doing it just to get on your nerves, they really don’t know any better. –Priscilla M., Rover.com
8. Make sure to distract them with something you want them to do, as opposed to just telling them no. –Priscilla M., Rover.com
9. Avoid giving in to things that will be a big no-no when they’re older and bigger. Example: jumping on people might be cute and tolerable when they’re still small and tiny, but if they’re going to get bigger, it won’t be cute then. –Priscilla M., Rover.com
10. Enroll in puppy manners and home obedience! This can be one of the most valuable things you can do to get the dog’s behavior to be what you desire. –Amber C., Rover.com
11. (Corollary to 10) It’s never too early to start training. The earlier the better. –Priscilla M. & Adam W., Rover.com
12. Determine what motivates your dog–food, attention–and train him/her accordingly. –Adam W., Rover.com
13. A tired puppy is a well-behaved puppy. –Becky C., Friendzy.com’s Beagle community
14. Puppies want nothing more than to please you, they just need to know how. Be consistent! –Joey W., Friendzy.com Rottweiler community
15. To encourage your puppy to use the crate in the beginning, a Kong toy filled with peanut butter works great. Use the command, ‘”In your crate’ and as soon as they go in on their own, and reward them with the Kong. –Amber C., Rover.com
16. Get used to them taking up the entire bed if you are not going to crate them. –Lea B., Friendzy.com
UNWANTED BEHAVIOR: CHEWING & BARKING
17. Bitter apple spray will stop your pup from chewing. –Mary S., Friendzy.com
18. Best advice to keep them from chewing stuff was to buy a variety of textures of toys and put one of their toys in their mouth literally every time they had a hold of something you didn’t want them to chew. Works well. No chewed up shoes with either of my last two schnauzers. –Deb R., Friendzy.com’s Schnauzer community
19. If you don’t want a barking puppy, take time to go out when they bark, tell them its okay and comfort them. –Lindy K., Friendzy.com
LEASHES
20. Don’t use retractable leashes. They can snap, and they actually encourage dogs to pull. –Katie L., Rover.com
21. Harnesses that connect to the leash in the front of the chest are a godsend. They help prevent pulling. –Katie L., Rover.com
SOCIALIZING
22. You want your puppy to be affectionate and well socialized, but you also want him or her to be independent enough to not be stressed when left alone. –David Wiley, Bark Busters
23. Socialize and expose your puppy to people and other dogs! Introduce your puppy to as many places as you can, and to as many people and other dogs as you can. –Priscilla M., Rover.com
24. If you get a specific breed, do some research to find local groups with that same breed. Meetup.com allows you to find and attend local meetups with other dog owners and can be a great resource if you have questions, concerns or need advice. –Amber C., Rover.com
25. Introduce your puppy to everything. All shapes and sizes so they are comfortable with their surroundings. This includes people wearing hats, backpacks, carrying things, other dogs, people of all races, children, other animals and noises. –Amber C., Rover.com
26. Introduce to all kinds of people in all kinds of clothing & appearances (including hat, beards, and glasses), and have yummy treats on hand for rewarding your pup. –Katie L., Rover.com
POTTY TRAINING
27. For the first month or so, if your puppy is small, carry them to the grass to eliminate instead of letting them walk to the grass. This prevents any accidents that may happen on the way outside and lets you place them where you’d like them to use the restroom. –Amber C., Rover.com
28. Use positive reinforcement for potty training. When they use the restroom outside, give them a ‘potty party’ which you give them a little treat, lots of scratches and pets, and say, “good boy/girl!” in a high-pitched, excited tone. –Amber C., Rover.com
29. Put a bell on the door for potty training. –Kimberly F. S., Friendzy.com
30. Make sure your dog learns to potty on leash and off leash. Working at a vet clinic you see so many dogs who don’t know how to potty on a leash because it wasn’t told to them at their puppy visits. –Megan H., Friendzy.com’s Boston Terrier community
31. For potty training, don’t scold for mistakes. It’s on you if the dog goes inside, you probably aren’t taking him or her outside frequently enough. Praise and treat every time they go outside. Associate a term with it such as, “Go potty” or “Hurry up!” as soon as the dog starts going. –Katie L., Rover.com
HEALTH, EXERCISE & GROOMING
32. Naps are important for your puppy. Be sure to give him the space and time he needs to relax. Try not to overwhelm him. Like a baby, he’ll need frequent naps during the day. –David Wiley, Bark Busters
33. Fill a Kong with food and natural peanut butter, then freeze it. This is great for teething puppies and separation anxiety. Puzzle toys are wonderful. –Katie L., Rover.com
34. Exercise your puppy regularly, but not too much too soon. Exercise can tire her out, but training can provide mental exercise which can also be tiring. –David Wiley, Bark Busters
35. When you take your puppy to puppy classes, make sure the other dogs there are up to date on vaccinations. –Katie L., Rover.com
36. Take care of their teeth!! My vet puts down so many small dogs and cats because they have heart disease, kidney disease, etc… and the issue is rotten teeth and years of painful mouth infections leaking into their bodies. Annual dentals will give your little ones a longer, less pain-filled life. –Sharona S., Friendzy.com’s
37. Please don’t let the young baby humans play with the doggie babies until they know how to hold them, put them down carefully, know to not put them in the pool, toilet, trash can, etc., and not to squeeze them, hold them up by the tail or little paw or hit them. It makes me cringe when I see that. –Elizabeth-Vickie L.G., Friendzy.com
38. A wind-up alarm clock in their bed helps [it reminds them of their mother’s heartbeat].
–Theresa R., Friendzy’s Pug community
39. Get your dog accustomed to being touched on its , legs, mouth, etc., will help when you need to bring him or her to the vet or groomer. –Poochies Grooming.
40. Keep your puppy out of large stores or public places when they’re little. The Parvo virus can live on surfaces if they’re not cleaned properly. –Amie H., Friendzy’s Schnauzer community
41. Start driving your puppy in the car early if you want them to like the car and not get car sick. –Carla C.B.
BREED-SPECIFIC ADVICE
42. Poodle Puppies aren’t naughty, they’re super smart and need lots and lots of interaction…bad behavior means they’re bored..get off your butt and get that puppy outside lol –Susan M., Friendzy
43. Training, training, training!!! Dogs act like puppies for so many years, it’s so important to get them trained early, otherwise you are in for it when they are fully grown. My boy is about 95 lbs., and still thinks he is a baby (He is a 7 year-old, 95 lb. LAP DOG!) –Joyanna C., Boxer Friendzy
44. Invest in good toys- and many toys. Rotate the stash every month and they will never touch your belongings or furniture. My boxer was over 12 years old and never damaged or destroyed what wasn’t hers! –Christine C., Friendzy
45. Get two dogs [to keep each other company]. –Steve B., Boxer Friendzy
46. Be the pack leader. You don’t want a 100-pound dog walking you or running your house. –Leslie K.S., Great Dane Friendzy
47. Keep in mind that Newfoundland's can reach handles on faucets and doors. They are smart. You may need to dog-proof your home. I had one that learned how to open the oven! –Sheana H., Great Dane Friendzy
48. When you get your puppy, have him or her eat out of your hand. Then work with to help them not guard their food because a lot of small kids get hurt that way. –Eric J., Friendzy.com
TRICKS
49. When teaching tricks, work in short, 5-minute intervals. It works! I taught my dog to sit, lay down, stay, and stand in two five- minute sessions while he was only 6 weeks old. –Mandi C., Friendzy.com Boston Terrier community
LAST BUT NOT LEAST
50. Patience, patience, patience AND make sure the whole family is using the same commands.
–Tori R., Friendzy.com’s
1. Think of your puppy as a toddler who has no concept of right or wrong, and needs to be taught. Repetition and consistency are key. –David Wiley, Bark Busters
2. Have a calm, assertive energy when training. –Susan C., Boston Terrier Friendzy
3. A crate is an invaluable tool when housebreaking a puppy. It provides your young dog with a sense of security when you are busy or away. Never leave a puppy in a crate for longer than 4-5 hours. –David Wiley, Bark Busters
4. Baby gates can also serve as a great training tool to block off “restricted areas” of the house and help to teach your puppy what areas are off limits. –David Wiley, Bark Busters
5. Teach the command “watch me.” Essentially, you train the dog to look at you on command. Good for if they are too distracted by a squirrel, another dog, cars they want to chase, etc. –Katie L., Rover.com
6. Teach “Go to your spot” with a mat, crate, or rug. Useful for dogs that jump on guests at the door. –Katie L., Rover.com
7. Don’t get upset when your puppy does something wrong or has an accident. Even though you might be convinced at the time he/she is doing it just to get on your nerves, they really don’t know any better. –Priscilla M., Rover.com
8. Make sure to distract them with something you want them to do, as opposed to just telling them no. –Priscilla M., Rover.com
9. Avoid giving in to things that will be a big no-no when they’re older and bigger. Example: jumping on people might be cute and tolerable when they’re still small and tiny, but if they’re going to get bigger, it won’t be cute then. –Priscilla M., Rover.com
10. Enroll in puppy manners and home obedience! This can be one of the most valuable things you can do to get the dog’s behavior to be what you desire. –Amber C., Rover.com
11. (Corollary to 10) It’s never too early to start training. The earlier the better. –Priscilla M. & Adam W., Rover.com
12. Determine what motivates your dog–food, attention–and train him/her accordingly. –Adam W., Rover.com
13. A tired puppy is a well-behaved puppy. –Becky C., Friendzy.com’s Beagle community
14. Puppies want nothing more than to please you, they just need to know how. Be consistent! –Joey W., Friendzy.com Rottweiler community
15. To encourage your puppy to use the crate in the beginning, a Kong toy filled with peanut butter works great. Use the command, ‘”In your crate’ and as soon as they go in on their own, and reward them with the Kong. –Amber C., Rover.com
16. Get used to them taking up the entire bed if you are not going to crate them. –Lea B., Friendzy.com
UNWANTED BEHAVIOR: CHEWING & BARKING
17. Bitter apple spray will stop your pup from chewing. –Mary S., Friendzy.com
18. Best advice to keep them from chewing stuff was to buy a variety of textures of toys and put one of their toys in their mouth literally every time they had a hold of something you didn’t want them to chew. Works well. No chewed up shoes with either of my last two schnauzers. –Deb R., Friendzy.com’s Schnauzer community
19. If you don’t want a barking puppy, take time to go out when they bark, tell them its okay and comfort them. –Lindy K., Friendzy.com
LEASHES
20. Don’t use retractable leashes. They can snap, and they actually encourage dogs to pull. –Katie L., Rover.com
21. Harnesses that connect to the leash in the front of the chest are a godsend. They help prevent pulling. –Katie L., Rover.com
SOCIALIZING
22. You want your puppy to be affectionate and well socialized, but you also want him or her to be independent enough to not be stressed when left alone. –David Wiley, Bark Busters
23. Socialize and expose your puppy to people and other dogs! Introduce your puppy to as many places as you can, and to as many people and other dogs as you can. –Priscilla M., Rover.com
24. If you get a specific breed, do some research to find local groups with that same breed. Meetup.com allows you to find and attend local meetups with other dog owners and can be a great resource if you have questions, concerns or need advice. –Amber C., Rover.com
25. Introduce your puppy to everything. All shapes and sizes so they are comfortable with their surroundings. This includes people wearing hats, backpacks, carrying things, other dogs, people of all races, children, other animals and noises. –Amber C., Rover.com
26. Introduce to all kinds of people in all kinds of clothing & appearances (including hat, beards, and glasses), and have yummy treats on hand for rewarding your pup. –Katie L., Rover.com
POTTY TRAINING
27. For the first month or so, if your puppy is small, carry them to the grass to eliminate instead of letting them walk to the grass. This prevents any accidents that may happen on the way outside and lets you place them where you’d like them to use the restroom. –Amber C., Rover.com
28. Use positive reinforcement for potty training. When they use the restroom outside, give them a ‘potty party’ which you give them a little treat, lots of scratches and pets, and say, “good boy/girl!” in a high-pitched, excited tone. –Amber C., Rover.com
29. Put a bell on the door for potty training. –Kimberly F. S., Friendzy.com
30. Make sure your dog learns to potty on leash and off leash. Working at a vet clinic you see so many dogs who don’t know how to potty on a leash because it wasn’t told to them at their puppy visits. –Megan H., Friendzy.com’s Boston Terrier community
31. For potty training, don’t scold for mistakes. It’s on you if the dog goes inside, you probably aren’t taking him or her outside frequently enough. Praise and treat every time they go outside. Associate a term with it such as, “Go potty” or “Hurry up!” as soon as the dog starts going. –Katie L., Rover.com
HEALTH, EXERCISE & GROOMING
32. Naps are important for your puppy. Be sure to give him the space and time he needs to relax. Try not to overwhelm him. Like a baby, he’ll need frequent naps during the day. –David Wiley, Bark Busters
33. Fill a Kong with food and natural peanut butter, then freeze it. This is great for teething puppies and separation anxiety. Puzzle toys are wonderful. –Katie L., Rover.com
34. Exercise your puppy regularly, but not too much too soon. Exercise can tire her out, but training can provide mental exercise which can also be tiring. –David Wiley, Bark Busters
35. When you take your puppy to puppy classes, make sure the other dogs there are up to date on vaccinations. –Katie L., Rover.com
36. Take care of their teeth!! My vet puts down so many small dogs and cats because they have heart disease, kidney disease, etc… and the issue is rotten teeth and years of painful mouth infections leaking into their bodies. Annual dentals will give your little ones a longer, less pain-filled life. –Sharona S., Friendzy.com’s
37. Please don’t let the young baby humans play with the doggie babies until they know how to hold them, put them down carefully, know to not put them in the pool, toilet, trash can, etc., and not to squeeze them, hold them up by the tail or little paw or hit them. It makes me cringe when I see that. –Elizabeth-Vickie L.G., Friendzy.com
38. A wind-up alarm clock in their bed helps [it reminds them of their mother’s heartbeat].
–Theresa R., Friendzy’s Pug community
39. Get your dog accustomed to being touched on its , legs, mouth, etc., will help when you need to bring him or her to the vet or groomer. –Poochies Grooming.
40. Keep your puppy out of large stores or public places when they’re little. The Parvo virus can live on surfaces if they’re not cleaned properly. –Amie H., Friendzy’s Schnauzer community
41. Start driving your puppy in the car early if you want them to like the car and not get car sick. –Carla C.B.
BREED-SPECIFIC ADVICE
42. Poodle Puppies aren’t naughty, they’re super smart and need lots and lots of interaction…bad behavior means they’re bored..get off your butt and get that puppy outside lol –Susan M., Friendzy
43. Training, training, training!!! Dogs act like puppies for so many years, it’s so important to get them trained early, otherwise you are in for it when they are fully grown. My boy is about 95 lbs., and still thinks he is a baby (He is a 7 year-old, 95 lb. LAP DOG!) –Joyanna C., Boxer Friendzy
44. Invest in good toys- and many toys. Rotate the stash every month and they will never touch your belongings or furniture. My boxer was over 12 years old and never damaged or destroyed what wasn’t hers! –Christine C., Friendzy
45. Get two dogs [to keep each other company]. –Steve B., Boxer Friendzy
46. Be the pack leader. You don’t want a 100-pound dog walking you or running your house. –Leslie K.S., Great Dane Friendzy
47. Keep in mind that Newfoundland's can reach handles on faucets and doors. They are smart. You may need to dog-proof your home. I had one that learned how to open the oven! –Sheana H., Great Dane Friendzy
48. When you get your puppy, have him or her eat out of your hand. Then work with to help them not guard their food because a lot of small kids get hurt that way. –Eric J., Friendzy.com
TRICKS
49. When teaching tricks, work in short, 5-minute intervals. It works! I taught my dog to sit, lay down, stay, and stand in two five- minute sessions while he was only 6 weeks old. –Mandi C., Friendzy.com Boston Terrier community
LAST BUT NOT LEAST
50. Patience, patience, patience AND make sure the whole family is using the same commands.
–Tori R., Friendzy.com’s